Learn how to hem a skirt! Hemming a skirt is probably the most challenging part of finishing your garment. You don’t just ‘put up a hem’! The skirt part of the dress or just a stand-alone skirt needs to be finished in just the right way to hang beautifully and sit at the right length for the finished garment to look perfect. The hem must hang neatly and never look bunched, crooked or skimpy. How do you achieve these results? Let's find out how!
HOW TO HEM A SKIRT
Follow these simple steps and you will have the perfect method to hem a skirt.
STEP 1 - MEASURING
Remember the hem is best measured from the floor to the hem to find the right hemline. When the hem is completed, it must hang level or in line with the floor. This simple guide will help to get a hemline that looks straight.
STEP 2 - TRY ON FOR FIT AND PIN
Try on your skirt and decide on the length of the finished hem. A friend or partner to assist with the measurement from the floor up to where the hem will sit is a great help.
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STEP 2 - ADD SEAM ALLOWANCE & CUT EXCESS
Measure the hem width from the pinned hemline to where you plan to cut the fabric for the hem. The hem width will include a turn-up for the neatening of the hem edge. There are several ways to hem a skirt discussed later in the article but here I will show you the simplest way first.
STEP 4 - PRESSING THE HEM
For a double hem, press the raw edge over by ¼" (6mm) on the wrong side.
STEP 5 - STITCHING
Hand stitch along the top fold of the hem using a hand slip stitch or machine straight stitch.
For machine stitching, ensure your bobbin thread color matches the outside of the skirt. Use a suitable needle and thread for your fabric and set the stitch length to a medium setting.
TIP 1 - MAKE A HEM CARD
This is a piece of card with different hem lengths marked on it. Slip the card into your hem width once you have measured the finished hem length and press the hem up to this measured height. This will give you an evenly marked hem width all around. Make an allowance for the turn-over of the hem.
TIP 2 - FINISH RAW EDGES
Prepare the raw edge of the hem prior to hemming. The raw edge needs to be trimmed ready to sew into the hem. It could be neatened with a serger, or a single turn with a machined finish. Add in a small seam allowance for this purpose.