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Introduction to Garment Craftsmanship

2022/10/10

Garment craftsmanship "four skills"

Knife work: refers to the cutting level.


Hand work: refers to the use of hand work for sewing in parts that cannot be operated directly by sewing machine or cannot be operated by sewing machine to achieve high quality requirements.


The main techniques are: trigger, string, fling, lock, nail, pry, tie, hit, wrap, arch, hook, tease, touch, adulteration, etc. 14 kinds of techniques.


Turn work: refers to the operation of the sewing machine level, to achieve straight, round, not crack, not tend, not arch.


Ironing: refers to different parts of the garment, using different techniques such as pushing, returning, plucking, pressing, and starting water ironing to make the garment more suitable for the body shape, neat and beautiful.


Clothing technology of "nine potential"

1、Withdrawal


2、Fat potential


3、Well potential


4、Concave potential


5、Squeeze


6、left potential


7、Circular potential


8、Bending potential


9、Trade mark potential.




Such as the sleeve cage hill must be round and smooth, the sleeve should be made to have curved potential, the back should have the trade mark potential to make the two hands expand and contract easily, the mouth of the son should have the nest potential, not outward, the front chest should have the fat potential, the shoulders should have the remaining potential, etc.


The "sixteen words" of clothing technology

That is, "flat, suit, smooth, straight, round, deng, straight, full, thin, loose, even, soft, live, light, nest, trade mark"

"Flat" means that the face, lining, and lining of the garment are flat, not tilted, and the lapels and back slit are not stirred or open, and there is no undulation.

"Suit" means that the garment should not only fit the size of the human body, but also the concave and convex curve of each part should be consistent with the concave and convex line of the human body, which is commonly called "suit".

"Shun" means that the lines of each part of the garment seams should match the lines of the human body type.

"Straight" means that the various straight lines of the garment should be straight and unbent.

"Round" means that the lines connecting various parts of the garment are composed of smooth round arcs.

"Deng" means that the horizontal lines of each part of the garment (such as the bust line and waist line) are parallel to the ground after being worn on the body.

"Straight" means that all parts of the garment should be straight.

"Full" means that the front chest of the garment should be full.

"Thin" means that the parts of the garment such as the stop and the head should be thin, which can give people a feeling of floating and comfort.

"Loose" means that the garment is not stretched, not dull, and can give people a sense of liveliness.

"Even" means that the surface, lining and lining of the garment should be uniform and even.

"Soft" means that the lining of the garment is stiff but not hard and has a soft feeling.

"Live" means that the lines and curves of the garment are flexible and lively, and do not give people a dull feeling.

"Light" means that the garment feels easy to wear.

The word "nest" means that all parts of the garment, such as the stopper, collar, bag cover and back slit, should have a nest potential.

"Gai (Gai) refers to the width and comfort of the garment, which is not tight when reaching out and not creasing when putting the hand straight.


The above sixteen characters are all interrelated and unified in one garment, which can show the characteristics of traditional clothing craft. Clothing craft techniques have a long history, and a variety of forms such as


inlaid, inlaid


rolled, wrapped, and


hollowing, spelling


paste, painting, and


Embroidery and other forms, the performance of different styles of clothing. For example, the traditional women's cheongsam is not only the essence of national traditional costume, but also occupies a considerable position in the international costume stage, which is inseparable from its unique craft. Pictures



Every thread and strand should be thought of when the skills are refined, every stitch and thread is always thought of breakthrough innovation. The spirit of skillfulness, diligence and dedication of the old tailor's soul, which is pure and persistent, should be the "craftsman spirit" that modern people need!


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